Serving Yonkers & Southern Westchester, NY
Brick Pointing Yonkers, NY repairs and rebuilds parapet walls on apartment buildings, storefronts and flat-roof homes. We reset loose coping on stainless anchors, install flashing under the coping, repoint or rebuild the brick and work with your roofer at the roof line. The result is a roof edge that stays dry and stays put.

Flashed under the coping
The layer most old parapets were built without

A parapet is the part of an exterior wall that rises above the roof. On flat-roof buildings it forms the roof edge, hides rooftop equipment and acts as a guard. It is topped by coping, a cap of stone, terra cotta, concrete or metal that sheds water off the wall.
Because a parapet stands in open air, it takes more weather than any other wall on the building. Across Yonkers, walk-ups, apartment buildings and commercial blocks are ringed by them, which is why so many top-floor leaks start at the roof edge.
From the top down, a well-built parapet has these seven layers. When one of them is missing or failed, water finds the wall.
Coping: sloped toward the roof, with a drip edge on both sides so water falls clear of the wall.
Coping joints: the gaps between coping pieces, sealed so water cannot drop into the wall.
Under-coping flashing: a metal or membrane layer under the coping that turns water back out.
Coping anchors: pins or straps that hold each coping piece to the wall.
Parapet brick, two faces: the street face and the roof face, both exposed to weather.
Roof counterflashing: metal set into the roof face of the parapet, lapping over the roofing.
Base flashing: flashing near the bottom of the parapet that keeps water above the roof from running down into the wall below.
The same brick and mortar last longer lower down. These four reasons explain why the roof edge goes first.
A parapet goes through more freeze and thaw cycles than the walls below because both faces are open to the weather (MCAA).
The wall below is warmed a little by the rooms behind it. A parapet is not, so the water in it freezes sooner (IIBEC).
Rain and snow sit on the coping, and any open joint lets water straight into the core of the wall.
Older copings were often held with steel anchors that rust and expand, cracking the masonry around them (Hoffmann Architects).
Find the problem you are seeing, why it matters, and what we do about it.
| Problem | Why it matters | Our repair |
|---|---|---|
| Loose or shifted coping | Pieces can fall; water enters under them | Remove, re-flash and reset on stainless anchors |
| Open coping joints | Direct path for water into the wall | Rake out, add backer rod and seal, or re-flash under the coping |
| Eroded mortar on either face | Water soaks the wall and freezes | Repoint both faces |
| Spalled or cracked brick | Faces flake onto the roof or street | Replace damaged brick |
| Leaning or bowed parapet | Wall is losing its hold | Take down and rebuild the parapet section |
| Leaks at the base of the parapet | Failed counterflashing or base flashing | New counterflashing, coordinated with your roofer |
| Stains on the top floor facade | Water entering at the roof edge and running down | Fix the coping and flashing above, then repoint below |
Copings come in stone, terra cotta, precast concrete and metal (Hoffmann Architects). Whatever the material, good coping slopes and overhangs so its drip sits at least an inch out from the wall face (Building Design + Construction, citing BIA).
Look: classic and heavy; limestone, bluestone or granite to match older facades.
Notes: long life; joints need sealing; we reuse sound original stones.
Look: glazed, curved profiles on older buildings.
Notes: matching pieces can be hard to find, so we salvage where we can.
Look: clean and uniform.
Notes: made to size with drips cast in; good for full replacement.
Look: slim and modern, in aluminum or steel.
Notes: covers the top in long runs with few joints; often paired with a roof membrane.
Old or failed coping anchors can let coping stones slide or fall (Hoffmann Architects). On buildings that face a sidewalk, a parking area or a neighbor’s yard, that is a real risk. If a coping stone has shifted, cracked through or rocks when pressed, keep people clear below and call us. We can secure it quickly, then plan the full repair.
Nine steps, from the first look at the roof edge to the last photo of the finished coping.
1
We check both faces and the coping, and mark every loose piece.
2
Any loose coping is secured or removed before work begins.
3
Each piece is numbered so it goes back where it came from.
4
We repoint both faces, replace damaged brick or rebuild leaning sections.
5
New flashing runs through the wall and out to drip edges on both sides.
6
Coping goes back on stainless anchors, sloped toward the roof.
7
Coping joints are raked, backed and sealed.
8
Counterflashing is set in the roof face and coordinated with your roofer’s work.
9
Debris comes off the roof, and you get photos of everything we covered back up.

The parapet and the roof meet at the counterflashing, and that seam causes many leaks. When roofing and masonry are done at different times, a roofer may have to cut into the parapet joints later and can damage flashing that is already in the wall (BNP Media continuing education).
We plan the order of work with your roofer so the parapet is flashed, the roof is tied in and nothing is cut twice.
Mason
1. Parapet repaired and flashed
Roofer
2. Roof membrane tied in
Mason
3. Counterflashing set and sealed
We price after a roof and street survey, and the estimate is free. A few loose copings and a full parapet rebuild sit at opposite ends of the range.
Long parapets on walk-ups and apartment buildings, done in sections with tenant access and roof doors kept open.
Decorative parapets and cornices on commercial blocks, with sidewalk protection below and entrances kept usable.
Parapets on flat-roof row houses, porches and garages, where the roof edge is often the first place water gets in.
Yonkers has many pre-war homes and apartment buildings (WeRelate, from Wikipedia). Many of them have flat roofs ringed by brick parapets, often with stone or terra cotta coping that has been in place for generations.
Those parapets were usually built without the flashing that is standard today, which is why the top floor is so often where leaks begin.
Also serving: Mount Vernon, New Rochelle, Bronxville, Hastings-on-Hudson and Scarsdale.
Adding flashing under the coping during repair brings an old parapet up to how roof edges are built now.
Roof-edge problems rarely stop at the parapet. These are the services that cover what sits around it.
What owners ask us about coping, flashing and leaks at the roof edge.
It is the part of an outside wall that rises above the roof line. On flat-roof buildings it forms the roof edge and is capped with coping.
Often the water is coming in at the roof edge: through open coping joints, missing flashing under the coping or failed counterflashing. It runs down inside the wall and shows up on the ceiling or wall below.
Most can be reset if they are not cracked through. We lift them, add flashing and reset them on stainless anchors. Broken pieces are replaced with matching stone or precast.
Usually both, in order. The mason repairs the brick, coping and through-wall flashing; the roofer ties the roof into it. We coordinate so the work fits together.
A parapet that leans or bows has lost its hold on the wall. That section needs to be taken down and rebuilt, with new flashing and anchored coping.
Neither is better everywhere. Metal has fewer joints and suits modern roofs. Stone and terra cotta suit older facades and last a long time when flashed and sealed. We recommend based on your building.
Yes. We set up protection below, secure loose coping first and plan the work to keep entrances open.
Leaks on the top floor or loose coping on the roof? Call us or send photos, and we will survey your roof edge from the roof and the street.