Serving Yonkers & Southern Westchester, NY
Brick Pointing Yonkers, NY repoints older brick and stone walls with lime-based mortar matched to the building. We check what your walls were built with, remove hard cement patches without harming the masonry, and pack the joints with a mix that is softer than your brick or stone. That protects the wall for the next repointing cycle.

Softer than your brick
Mortar matched so the joint wears, not the masonry
In a healthy masonry wall, the mortar is the part that wears out, so the brick or stone does not. The National Park Service puts it simply: mortar has to be softer than the masonry it holds together (NPS). Its repointing guidance adds that new mortar should be no harder or less breathable than the historic mortar (NPS Preservation Brief 2).
Most brick buildings from before 1900 were laid in lime-based mortar with brick that is softer than modern brick (Maine Preservation). Lime-rich mortar lets moisture leave the wall through the joints and gives a little as the building moves. A dense cement mortar does neither, so the stress and the water move into the brick instead, which can lead to spalling. Our brick replacement page shows what that damage looks like.
These clues tell us a wall was built with lime and should be repointed with it. Most are easy to spot from the sidewalk or the basement.
Brick or stone laid before the mid-1900s, especially with soft, sandy original mortar.
Hard gray repairs that stay in place while the brick around them wears back.
Brick faces flaking right beside earlier cement repointing.
The first mortar crumbles to sand under a key, a sign it was lime-based.
Walls that stayed dry for decades and turned damp after a cement repointing job.
Bricks that scratch easily or vary in color and size from one to the next.
There is no single “lime mortar.” We pick the mix that matches your masonry, its exposure and the original joints.
| Mortar | How it sets | Where it fits |
|---|---|---|
| Lime putty (non-hydraulic) | Hardens slowly by taking in carbon dioxide from the air | The softest historic brick and stone; sheltered walls |
| Natural hydraulic lime (NHL) | Sets partly with water, then keeps hardening from the air; graded by strength | Most older brick and stone in exposed spots |
| Lime-rich cement mixes (Type O, Type K) | A small share of cement for an earlier set | Some historic repointing work, as noted by the Utah State Historic Preservation Office |
| Natural cement | Fast-setting mix made from cement rock | Buildings first laid with natural cement; ASTM C10 was reinstated in 2006 (Rosendale Cement) |
We match the sand too. Sand gives mortar most of its color and texture, so a matched sand lets new joints sit quietly in an old wall instead of standing out as a patch.
Lime work is slower than cement work, and every step is there for a reason. Here is the order we follow on Yonkers buildings.
1
We take a small piece of original mortar and study its color, sand and hardness. For important buildings, we can arrange lab analysis.
2
We test how hard and absorbent the brick or stone is, so the new mortar stays softer than it.
3
We choose the lime type, sand and proportions, then make test samples.
4
You approve the cured color and texture on a small area before the full job.
5
Joints are cleared by hand and with oscillating tools, which are far gentler on old brick than circular saws (Maine Preservation).
6
Joints are dampened, then filled in layers, each pressed firm before the next.
7
We tool or brush the surface at the right moment to match the original profile.
8
The work is kept damp and shaded for several days, and covered against frost and driving rain.

Hard cement repointing is the most common damage we undo on older Yonkers walls. Cement holds tight to soft brick, so pulling it out carelessly breaks the brick edges and widens every joint. We cut cement joints out slowly, working from the center of the joint toward the edges, and stop if the brick starts to chip. Bricks already damaged by the cement are replaced before repointing.
Not every old patch has to go at once. We tell you which repairs are causing harm now and which can wait.
Cement joints that are spalling brick, trapping damp or pulling away from the wall.
Old patches on a sound wall that are not causing harm, left for the next full repointing.
Lime mortar needs care while it sets. Too much sun or wind dries it before it can harden, and frost can damage it while it is still soft. That is a big reason lime work should be done by a crew that does it often, and why we plan each elevation around the forecast.
Joints are misted so the lime sets instead of drying out.
Burlap or shade cloth on walls exposed to sun and wind.
Work is timed around cold, and fresh joints are covered against frost and driving rain.
Two things set the size of a lime job: the state of the wall and what the work needs around it. We price after a site visit, and the estimate is free.
Older brick and stone houses where earlier cement repairs have started to harm the walls. We often start with the worst elevation and phase the rest.
Pre-war apartment buildings with soft brick, repointed elevation by elevation, with sidewalk protection and tenant access built into the schedule.
Older commercial blocks where the upper floors keep their historic brick above newer shop fronts, planned so the shop can stay open.
The Hudson Valley has its own mortar history. Rosendale, in Ulster County, produced natural cement from 1825, and more than half of all natural cement made in the U.S. came from cement rock mined in and around that town (Wikipedia). Rosendale cement went into the Croton Aqueduct and its dams (Rosendale Cement), and the Old Croton Aqueduct line runs right through Yonkers.
So older masonry in this region may hold lime mortar, natural cement or a mix of both. That is why we look at your mortar before we choose ours.
Also serving: Mount Vernon, New Rochelle, Bronxville, Hastings-on-Hudson and Scarsdale.
1825
Rosendale, Ulster County, begins producing natural cement.
50%+
of all U.S. natural cement came from cement rock in and around Rosendale.
Lime work often sits alongside these services on older buildings.
Yes. Lime mortar is meant to be softer than the brick or stone, not weak. Many walls laid in lime have stood for well over a century. Its job is to bed the masonry and wear out first.
We look at a sample’s color, sand and hardness, and how it reacts when scratched and wetted. For historic or complex buildings, we can send a sample to a lab for analysis.
In most cases, yes. We cut it out slowly with hand tools and oscillating blades instead of large grinders. Where a brick edge is already broken, we replace that brick before repointing.
Usually not. Newer homes are often built with harder brick and cement-lime mortar, so we match that. Lime-rich mixes are for older, softer masonry.
It firms up over several days but keeps gaining strength for weeks and months as it takes in carbon dioxide. That is why we protect it while it cures.
Not once it has cured. While fresh, we cover it against driving rain. Over many years it wears back slowly, which is by design: the joint takes the weather instead of your brick.
Tell us roughly when your building went up, or send photos of the joints. We will check the mortar and recommend the right mix before any work is quoted.